Why PMU Brows Turn Gray (or Pink) | Pigment Guide

radiantinkbeauty
Aug 12
3 min read

Why Do PMU Brows Turn Gray (or Pink)?

Pigment Science Made Simple

You’ve probably seen brows that healed gray… and others that turned pinky or reddish. Sometimes that can happen if an artist works too deep, but most of the time, it comes down to pigment selection.

I educate every single client about the type of pigment I’m using and how it’s expected to age. I promise not to drown you in “skin theory,” but it’s important to understand the basics—because this helps you make an informed choice about your brows.

The Quick Take

For permanent makeup artists, we basically have three choices when selecting your brow pigment:

Carbon-based — Contains more black pigment particles, which usually means more longevity and a crisp, defined look. Over time, this formula can heal cooler/ashy on some skin tones.
Iron oxide-based — Made with more earthy tones, so brows can heal softer and warmer, sometimes looking a little pinky or reddish as they fade.
Hybrid — A balance of both carbon and iron oxide. This is my most-used option because it’s designed to fade in a more neutral way without going overly cool or overly warm.

My Approach to Pigment Selection

I only use high-end, professional pigments—no shortcuts here. Most of the time, I choose a hybrid for a balanced, natural fade.

That said, I give my clients a choice:

• If you want maximum longevity and a more “stencil” look, you might prefer a carbon-heavy pigment.

• If you want the softest fade possible, we might lean toward a hybrid or more iron oxide-based formula.

A Note for My Long-Time Clients 😉

If you’ve been with me since my early days (almost 7 years ago now), you might be thinking… “Wait, I didn’t get a pigment choice back then!”

You’re not wrong. In my first few years, hybrid pigments weren’t as widely available — and the majority of what we had to work with were carbon-based formulas. Manufacturers have come a long way since then, and they’ve listened to artists about what our clients’ brows looked like after healing.

So if your brows from a few years ago have healed cooler or ashy, it’s probably because carbon was the go-to back then. Now, we have more options and better formulas, so we can refresh your brows in a way that gives you a softer, more natural fade moving forward.

Text me and we can talk about doing a color correction or shifting them back to a flattering brown that works with your skin tone today.

Why I Wait for Touch-Ups

Although touch-ups are part of PMU, I prefer to wait at least 12–18 months (sometimes longer) before refreshing your brows. This gives your body time to naturally break down the pigment, which:

• Keeps your brows from becoming over-saturated

• Maintains a soft, natural look instead of looking like a solid tattoo

Too many early touch-ups = too much pigment packed in. My goal is to keep your brows fresh without overdoing it.

Already Have Old Gray or Pink Brows?

We can fix that. Options include color correction, saline removal, or in some cases, Fibroblast. I’ll assess your photos and recommend the best plan to get your brows looking great again.

FAQs

Will my brows turn gray?
- Depends. Your skin tone, aftercare, sun exposure, and pigment choice all play a role. My job is to choose the pigment formula that gives you the best possible fade for your unique skin.

Which lasts longer—carbon or iron oxide?
- Carbon-based pigments tend to last longer but may heal cooler. Iron oxide fades softer but may warm over time. Hybrids aim for a balanced fade.

Can I choose the pigment type?
- Yes. I’ll explain the pros and cons, then you can decide what’s best for your goals.

How often are touch-ups?
- Usually every 12–18+ months, depending on how your brows fade.

Want My Professional Opinion on Your Brows?

📸 Send me clear pictures of your brows for a free virtual consult and I’ll let you know the best plan for your goals. Text me at 424-224-6477. Interested in seeing our brow services? Check them out here

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